When it comes to historical settings with flare, few Warwickshire landmarks boast quite so impressive a CV as Wroxall Abbey Hotel.

Situated just over 10 minutes from Birmingham Airport, within a short drive from nearby Warwick Castle, Baddesley Clinton and Packwood House Estate, one only has to step through its imposing front gates to feel instantly immersed in its impressive and surprising heritage.

Entering the driveway, complete with tree-lined avenues and manicured lawns, I was instantly struck by the magnificent spectacle of Wroxall’s 12th century Priory and Cathedral (home, incidentally, to the only on-site chapel of its kind to be owned by a hotel in the UK). And that was before we’d set foot in the Hotel itself, a newly renovated, 72-bedroom Victorian mansion, awash with original period features which included signature stained glass windows, statement fireplaces, original floor tiles and an imposing central staircase.

Such was the unmistakable grandeur of our welcome, that our visit to Henry’s Restaurant (named, incidentally, after King Henry VIII, who awarded the estate of Wroxall Abbey to Robert Burgoyne, following the dissolution of the Monasteries) proved something of an anti-climax when it came to atmosphere. Set against the resplendent backdrop of Wroxall’s main dining hall – a grand and imposing space furnished with stone fireplace and intricate wood-panelled walls - I couldn’t help feel this same attention to detail was lacking when it came to the upkeep of the space, which felt somewhat corporate in layout by comparison. A little candlelight, some ambient background music, a roaring fire even, would have made a world of difference and added some much-needed warmth to so vast a room on so cool an Autumn evening.

General ambience aside however, a brief glance at Wroxhall Abbey’s A La Carte menu revealed an impressive choice of dishes, from British classics including 8oz Sirloin Steak served with chips, confit flat mushrooms and peppercorn sauce, Mediterranean-inspired mains such as Lemon Thyme Chicken Risotto served with roasted beetroot, fennel and artichokes (£24.95) plus far-flung specialities including Asian Spiced Curry served with a choice of Chicken, Prawn or Tofu and Pan Fried Seabass, Crab and Salmon Thai fish cakes in black sesame seeds and accompanied by pickled pack choi and steamed mussels in aromatic sauce.

Opting for a starter of Bruschetta with Gambas; fresh king prawns served with a chilli garlic, parsley and brandy white wine reduction, the quality and generosity of the portions was undeniable. Drenched in a rich, decadent garlic and brandy butter, the bruschetta was light and fluffy with just the right crunch to it, whilst the king prawns were cooked to perfection; firm of texture and packed with the fresh flavour of the sea and – whilst a tad on the expensive side at £12.95 per head – was well worth the money. My partner’s choice of Honey Glazed, Rosemary & Garlic Baked Camembert (£12.95) served with toasted bread and onion chutney was, in every way, an Autumnal treat; rich in flavour, with earthy notes of mushroom and garlic, but by no means overbearing, and served with a smoothness of texture just perfect for dipping.

For the main course, my choice of Roasted Pork Belly in mustard cider cream sauce, couldn’t have been better suited to its grandiose setting. Served with black pudding potato cake, tender stem broccoli and fresh green beans, the presentation alone was worthy of a Tudor banquet. And what is Pork Belly without the crackling, which this dish delivered in spades; crunchy, packed full of flavour and complimented beautifully by the sharp tang of the wholegrain mustard accompaniment. As if that wasn’t decadent enough – the addition of freshly cooked black pudding to any potato side dish has to be a winner in my book and this unique variation on a classic did not disappoint! My partner’s choice of Braised Lamb Shoulder, served with fondant potatoes, root vegetable & mint puree and pan jus, was just as enjoyable and served in a size that would give Henry VIII himself as run for his money (which is just as well really at £29.95 per head). The lamb, whilst a little on the well-done side for my partner’s taste, was incredibly tender nonetheless and the sweet notes of the honey roast carrots and beetroot accompaniment offered the ideal counterpoint to the intense flavours of the pan jus and earthy root vegetable puree.

With stomachs full and the wine flowing, there was just enough space left for a dessert of classic Apple and Ginger Sticky Toffee Pudding (£7.95) served with butterscotch sauce and caramel ice cream; a luscious marriage of fresh apple, brown sugar and decadent black treacle, complimented perfectly by the sweet notes of the caramel ice-cream. My partner’s choice of Vanilla Crème Brulé (£8.95) was, by contrast, the ideal palette cleanser after so hearty a Main Course; complete with crunchy caramelised topping and creamy vanilla custard, prepared with utmost care and an innate appreciation for classic French cuisine.

Special mention too, at this point, must go to our wonderful waiter, Adarsh, who went out of his way to ensure that our every need was attended to, at all times with a graciousness, warmth and exacting eye for detail one might expect from such an opulent setting.

For those wishing to immerse themselves further in the estate’s magnificent landscaped grounds, Wroxall also offers a range of Afternoon Tea, Sunday Lunch, Private and Al Fresco Dining options, as well as overnight accommodation in one of 72 newly refurbished rooms ranging from £116.50 for a cosy single up to £282.75 for a Master Suite with flexible dinner and breakfast.

From its sacred origins as an 11th century Priory to its dissolution under the iron first of King Henry VIII to the formation of the present day Mansion House and gardens under James Dugdale in 1861, a walk through Wroxall Abbey’s 27 acres of beautifully tended and secluded grounds is like taking a walk back through time. And with a little finessing here and there, I have every confidence that it’s fantastic dining offer can and will live up to the unmistakeable grandeur of its backdrop.

Four stars. Katherine Ewing

To book a table, visit: wahotel.co.uk